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Islands are magical places. They conjure images of peace and tranquillity, romance and paradise.
By Clive Petrovic
They’re places where the imagination can run wild, inhibitions can evaporate and dreams come true. There’s so much to experience, share and treasure.
Whether arriving by air or sea, the lure of these islands will capture your imagination. Your image of tropical green islands rising majestically from the deep blue sea becomes reality in the British Virgin Islands. The many islands and cays are but mountaintops of what was once a huge land mass extending from Anegada to Puerto Rico and beyond. That was during the last ice age, some 10,000 years ago. Today, with sea levels several hundred feet higher, we’re treated to a spectacular show of islands, imposing sea cliffs, tranquil bays and coves — and the most magnificent of all underwater worlds. These islands are much more than just beautiful vistas. They offer sounds, smells, tastes and feelings that will remain with you long after your departure.
In the BVI, the attractions under the water are every bit as exciting as those on land. Many people come especially for the fabulous sailing, snorkelling, deep-sea fishing, scuba diving or exotic water sports. Others prefer the diverse sights and activities typical of island life. Some come just to relax in a hammock with a good book and a cool drink. Most seek to escape the cold weather, hectic cities and stressful pace of the real world. Visitors to the islands want to unwind, slow down, find a secluded beach and gaze at a magnificent sunset.
Of course, in the morning, with memories of steel band rhythms from the previous night still fresh, it’s time to greet the new day and see what else the islands have to offer. They’re all different. Each island has its own mood, sights and sounds. Each moves to its own rhythm. Let’s look at the islands and see what’s so special.
Island Activities
There’s so much to see and do in the BVI that it’s really hard to know where to begin. There are activities unique to each island and some that bridge the open seas between. It all depends on your interests.
Naturally, water activities are the main attraction. Sailing is very popular, and there is no shortage of events for enthusiasts. There is the renowned BVI Spring Regatta that attracts world-class racers. Foxy’s Wooden Boat Regatta puts Jost Van Dyke on centre stage during the Memorial Day holidays. Every month, there are races and regattas somewhere in the BVI. Surfers, board sailors and kiteboarders will find plenty of challenges here. For those preferring a less strenuous activity, there are beach chairs and hammocks galore.
Divers and snorkellers have seemingly endless possibilities for enjoying the underwater world. For the novice or expert, there are coral reefs, canyons and grottoes sure to please the most inquisitive explorers. For the adventurous, there are dozens of shipwrecks with stories to tell.
Landlubbers need not fear. There’s plenty of fun for just about any desire. The islands have quaint communities where you can shop for that special gift. You can relax on a beach sipping a piŇa colada or dance to island rhythms. You can rent a car and explore on your own or ride a horse from the mountain to the beach.
If nature is more to your liking, there are parks and protected areas on all the major islands. You can hike the trails and enjoy the flowers, birds and wildlife. Or perhaps you would rather explore old forts, plantation ruins or walk among the bricks and mortar that were laid down before the first Europeans settled in North America.
If your idea of fun involves a bit more of a cultural immersion, you can join the crowds for some real island happenings. There’s the annual music festival in Cane Garden Bay, the August Festival celebrating Emancipation or the legendary Foxy’s New Year’s Eve Bash, where the rich and famous rub shoulders with throngs of revellers.
For a quick introduction and overview of the islands, there’s no better way than by air. Chartering a small plane or taking a helicopter tour for a bird’s eye view is a good way to begin.
Let’s take a closer look at the four main islands to see what’s available.
Tortola
Tortola, with its rich history, is the largest, most populated island. It is the seat of government and the hub of commercial activity. There’s much to see, and perhaps the best way to begin is by taking a walking tour of Road Town.
The town is perfect for history buffs, those interested in architecture, or the shoppers and gregarious types. Start in the centre at the Sir Olva Georges Plaza. This is across from the ferry dock and in front of the old Post Office. From here you can walk down Main Street heading east and pass any number of small shops, galleries and restaurants. This is a great place to pick up those special island souvenirs.
Along the way you might stop at the Virgin Islands Folk Museum for a look back into history. Note the massive stone walls and historic wooden buildings of a bygone era. Perhaps most impressive is the old prison. Still imposing, it looks like a movie set from an old western. To get the most out of a stroll through Road Town, hire a local historian as a guide. Michael Kent at the community college is one such individual.
While in the Road Town area, don’t miss the Government House, a museum and former governor’s residence, or the new 1780 Lower Estate Sugar Works Museum. For a quiet relaxing treat, stop at the J.R. O’Neal Botanic Gardens. A beautiful tropical paradise in the middle of town, it is teeming with colourful flowers, butterflies and birds.
As you drive out of town, heading west along the coast road, you will pass the new Peebles Hospital, still under construction, and Government House. Soon, you’ll drive through the settlement at Sea Cow’s Bay. Just beyond, the Nanny Cay Marina and Hotel is a gathering place for the yachting crowd. There are shops and restaurants on the water, overlooking sailboats and luxury mega yachts.
The drive down the coast takes you along the edge of Sir Francis Drake Channel. While there are always yachts in view, if you’re lucky enough to visit during a regatta, you may be treated to a stunning display of colourful spinnakers racing downwind. Across the channel are many islands, including St. John, the nearest of the U.S. Virgin Islands.
You will pass Fort Recovery, originally built by the Dutch and now converted into a quaint resort. The coast road terminates at West End, a ferry terminal and port of entry. Across the harbour from the ferry dock is the Soper’s Hole Marina. There are shops and restaurants and lots of yachties taking a break at the bar.
Near West End, take the Zion Hill road over to the north shore. You’ll pass a quaint church on the way. On the north shore, you may stop to enjoy the local communities at Apple Bay and Carrot Bay. There are fancy resorts and restaurants, as well as stops where you can sample coconut water in the local style.
Cane Garden Bay is probably the best-known beach in the BVI. There are lots of restaurants and shops. This is the place to dance barefoot in the sand to the sound of island rhythms. Don’t forget to take a trip back in history and visit the Callwood Distillery. Take home a bottle of their special island rum.
From the bay, you can drive up the mountain to the ridge road. This road runs down the spine of Tortola and offers one breathtaking view after another. The highest point in all the Virgin Islands is at Sage Mountain National Park. You can spend hours walking the nature trails and enjoying the wildlife. From the trails, you can see in every direction — and the views are spectacular. You might want to take a sweater because it can be chilly at the higher elevations. Afterwards, take the short drive to the Sky Restaurant. It’s a wonderful place to sip a cocktail while enjoying a magnificent island sunset.
If you’re a surfer, or just like to watch them, Josiah’s Bay is the place to go. Large waves during the winter make this beach among the most picturesque. You can grab a bite and a drink at the beach bar or at the Josiah’s Bay Plantation, a restored plantation ruin.
Whatever your interests, you’re sure to enjoy your time on Tortola.
Virgin Gorda
Long known as a quiet island with a few upscale retreats, Virgin Gorda is experiencing a surge in popularity. It all started with the construction of the Little Dix Bay resort by Laurance Rockefeller in the 1960s. It was fancy and exclusive then, and today, more than four decades later, it’s always listed among the best resorts in the world.
Without a doubt, the most popular spot on the island is a tumble of giant boulders known as The Baths. Produced by geologic forces many millions of years ago, today it is a playground where you can explore grottoes with calm pools of warm water. After enjoying The Baths, be sure to visit the Copper Mine National Park. Copper ore was extracted from the mine for centuries, beginning with the Spanish in the 1500s.
The largest settlement is at Spanish Town, the original capital of the BVI. Here, you’ll find shops and restaurants to suit your interest. The area around the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour is a great place to mingle with the yachting crowd.
The drive from Spanish Town to Leverick Bay and Gun Creek takes you over the top of Virgin Gorda. On the way, stop and hike the trails at Gorda Peak National Park. You’ll walk through a variety of habitats with cactus, flowering orchids, exotic trees and abundant wildlife. At the lookout, the view will be well worth the hike.
North Sound is one of the most popular yachting destinations in the Caribbean. A sheltered anchorage, the sound offers a variety of amenities for yachties as well as landlubbers. Perhaps best known is the Bitter End Yacht Club, a resort that caters to the water sports enthusiasts. Not far away is the secluded, upscale Biras Creek Resort, where you can enjoy a magnificent meal in a casual but elegant setting.
Just north of the sound is Necker Island, the resort made famous by Sir Richard Branson. The island is a popular hideout of the rich and famous.
With so many celebrities visiting Virgin Gorda, you never know who might be seated next to you in that quaint little local bar or restaurant.
Jost Van Dyke
A quiet, charming island with fewer than 300 friendly residents, Jost Van Dyke is a popular destination for yachtsmen. The sheltered anchorages and inviting atmosphere makes it a must-see on every cruise through the islands.
Without a doubt, the most popular bay is Great Harbour, and the most popular stop is Foxy’s Tamarind Bar. The legendary Foxy Callwood has been entertaining visitors for decades with his impromptu musical renditions. The New Year’s Eve celebration is always listed among the top 10 in the world. Here you can dance and ring in the New Year with movie stars and rock stars.
Just around the corner is White Bay, where you can play on a magnificent white-sand beach and then retreat to one of several beach bars to quench your thirst.
On the opposite side of the island is Foxy’s Taboo Bar and Restaurant. From here, you can take a short walk to the “bubbly pool.” The pool is a natural sand depression that formed behind large boulders that break the force of ocean waves. Every time a large wave breaks, the pool fills with sea foam that feels like you’re sitting in champagne. On the walk, you’ll pass a salt pond. Keep an eye out for egrets, ducks and migrating birds.
For an extra bit of adventure, take a short boat ride to nearby Sandy Cay, the BVI’s newest National Park. Formerly the private island of Laurance Rockefeller, Sandy Cay has been preserved in a natural state.
Anegada
Visiting Anegada is like passing through a time machine. Most of the island looks about the way it did when the first humans arrived many centuries ago. The pink tinge of flamingos feeding on the salt ponds is a delight for nature lovers. Even The Settlement looks the way it did before electricity, cars and modern conveniences arrived. The island is large and the population small, so it’s easy to get away from it all. If you want seclusion and an escape from civilization, this is the place for you.
The best word to describe Anegada is beaches. Virtually the entire island is ringed with beaches. You can walk for miles and have the beach to yourself. No high-rise hotels, no parking lots, but you might come across a stray cow or donkey.
There are a few small resorts and restaurants with names like Anegada Reef Hotel, Neptune’s Treasure, Cow Wreck, Loblolly or Flamboyant. They’re always fun and never crowded. They all offer an ambience that’s rare in the modern world.
If you like to dive and snorkel, Anegada offers miles of reefs. You can dive right off the beach at any number of locations on the north shore. For fishermen, there is world-class fly-fishing for bonefish on the flats, or record-size billfish just north of the island.
For those wanting to relax and do nothing, there are some of the best hammocks in the world. But please, keep the secret to yourselves.
Tortola’s top five
- Visit one, or all five, historical museums.
- Hike the nature trails at Sage Mountain National Park.
- Relax in the J.R. O’Neal Botanic Gardens.
- Tour the Callwood Distillery in Cane Garden Bay.
- Drive over the hill to Gun Creek and explore North Sound.
Virgin Gorda’s top five
- Explore the pools and grottoes at The Baths.
- Take a walk on the trails at Gorda Peak National Park.
- Dig into history at the Copper Mine National Park.
- Enjoy the many yachting destinations in North Sound.
- Tour the island by car and enjoy the views.
Jost Van Dyke’s top five
- Meet Foxy at his Tamarind Bar in Great Harbour.
- Play in the sea foam at the “bubbly pool.” Take a cooler with your own bubbly.
- Relax on the beach at White Bay.
- Explore the community behind the beach in Great Harbour.
- Escape to the newest national park on Sandy Cay.
Anegada’s top five
- Walk through The Settlement and take a step back in time.
- Take a picture of the flamingos on the interior ponds.
- Try your hand at fly-fishing on the shallow flats.
- Snorkel with colourful tropical fish on the near shore reefs.
- Find a deserted beach and cast your inhibitions to the wind.
Art Gone Wild Safari Buses
By Clive Petrovic
Like all tourist destinations, the BVI has its share of taxis. The most popular and certainly most visible are the Safari Buses. These vehicles are customized to carry 20-25 passengers in open-air comfort, but the most interesting feature of almost every Safari Bus in the BVI is the artwork painted on its sides.
While some drivers place advertising on their vehicles, such as the Capt. Friendly 2-hour Tour, most depict historical or environmental scenes. Fish, dolphins and marine life are naturally popular. Many drivers exhibit scenes of beaches, scenic vistas or views of special significance. Sailing boats and powerboats are also popular. One bus even has a cruise ship painted on its side.
Drivers take great pride in their buses and artwork. The paintings are generally airbrushed by local artists. One talented young artist named "Ghost" has painted several vehicles. Aden, another BVI artist, is very good with the airbrush. A wonderful example of his work can be seen on Alford Christopher's bus. The sides of the bus contain scenes from the movie Finding Nemo. Nemo and all his friends make the bus especially attractive to children. Christopher credits his son Bryan with the idea for the Nemo scenes. Actually, Christopher deserves credit for originating the idea of art on buses. He first painted a bus in 1993. Since then, many drivers have personalized the concept. In fact, visiting a parking lot of Safari Buses is a lot like touring an art gallery. So, the next time you take a taxi, take a moment to enjoy the art that goes along with the ride.
Day Trips for Boaters
By Clive Petrovic
While there are only four major inhabited islands in the BVI, there are nearly 60 smaller islands, cays and rocks scattered throughout the archipelago. The best way to see these sights is by boat. Thus, a great part of any vacation is an island tour, on your own, by boat.
You can rent a small powerboat for the day in Road Town, Nanny Cay, West End and several other locations. Some experience driving a powerboat and basic chart-reading skills are useful to ensure you have a pleasurable day.
A great trip might be to leave from Road Town or Nanny Cay and head south across Sir Francis Drake Channel to Peter Island. You can tie up to the dock in Sprat Bay or anchor off the beach in Deadman’s Bay and swim ashore. Visitors are welcome in the public areas, the boutique and the beach grill. Who knows, you may be tempted to return and be pampered in the spa or have dinner in the elegant restaurant.
From Peter Island, it’s a short boat ride to Norman Island. This is Robert Louis Stevenson’s legendary Treasure Island, and comes complete with stories of pirates and buried chests of gold. Today, the island is uninhabited except for a restaurant on the beach in the Bight. Anchored in the bay is the William Thornton, affectionately known as the Willy T, a trading vessel converted to a bar and restaurant. It’s a great stop for a little “pirate” ambience. On holiday weekends, it can become a definite “adults only” venue.
Just outside the bay are the Caves. These are more like grottoes and a real snorkeller’s delight. Tie up to one of the National Park moorings and swim in. Colourful tropical fish will swim alongside you, looking for a handout. Please, resist the temptation to feed them. Human food is not healthy for the fish and may do them great harm.
After snorkelling at the Caves, take a short boat ride to The Indians. These rock outcrops are the size of houses and full of nesting seabirds in the summer. The waters around the rocks are teeming with fish of every shape and colour imaginable. Floating among the fish, corals and sea fans will make you feel like Peter Pan flying through an enchanted forest.
Another wonderful day trip might include a visit to Salt Island. Tie up to the dock and walk around the abandoned houses to the salt pond, where sea salt is still harvested. Afterwards, take the boat around the corner to the wreck of the HMS Rhone, the BVI’s first underwater park. Snorkel over the wreck and try to imagine what it looked like before it sank in 1867.
After some snorkelling, cruise east to Cooper Island. Accessible only by boat, this island has a few rental homes and a tiny resort that’s the image of a tropical paradise. Have lunch at the restaurant and pick up a souvenir in the boutique.
There are many possible itineraries for a day trip by boat. You can go fast by powerboat or slower by sailboat. Whichever you choose, it will certainly be the highlight of your visit to the BVI.
A Charismatic Taxi Tour Guide
By Elise Donovan
Among Anegada’s many charms, which include miles of white-sand beaches and superb diving sites, are its people. Like the island itself, the people are unspoiled, accommodating and eager to make you part of the Anegadian family. To get an intimate portrait of the BVI’s most secluded island and its people, one only has to hop aboard Anegada’s all-around-man Rondel Smith’s taxi tour.
Smith, one of seven children, comes from eight generations of Smiths who have resided on Anegada. He is related to most of the island’s 200 residents and has lived there all of his 36 years. On Anegada, Smith also met his wife of 11 years, a Guyanese who immigrated there to work at one of the hotels. They have three children. Smith credits his love for the land and sea to his 92-year-old grandfather, Vincent Smith — the island’s oldest resident.
Stops on Smith’s taxi tour include the reserve of the endemic and critically endangered rock iguanas; a conch shell mountain that’s reported to be hundreds of years old and is featured in pirate legends; and the elegant flamingos adorning the sometimes smelly salt ponds. Smith also points out plants that are “good for colds and your blood.” The Acacia Anegadian Cist is a tree that he says is found nowhere else in the world and was used by his grandfather to build ships.
Smith is also the island’s senior warden for the National Parks Trust, but says, “My best days are when I’m barefoot in the sea from sunrise to sunset.” His catches include lobsters, conch and fish, earning more than $1,500 per catch. He likes to fish at least a couple of times a week.
BVI Eco-Tours
Road Town, Tortola
Tel: 495-0271
E-mail: info@bvi-ecotours.com
Website: www.bvi-ecotours.com
Whether you want to snorkel 15 different sites, hike through natural out-island ecosystems, explore the islands by boat or any combination of adventures, this is the private excursion for you! Call for details and reservations. Half-day $275 / Full-day $395 / plus fuel. The only licenced Eco-Tourism Operator in the BVI.
Island Helicopters International, Ltd.
East End, Tortola
Tel: 499-2663
Fax: 495-2538
E-mail: info@helicoptersbvi.com
Website: www.helicoptersbvi.com
Island Helicopters provides airport transfers to and from all the islands. Scenic and photographic tours available. Spend the day shopping or exploring sister islands. Landing on an Anegada beach is unforgettable. Emergency and medical transfers.
Check out our sightseeing suggestions for British Virgin Islands,
island-by-island using the links above.
To get to the BVI's call American Airlines at 1-800-433-7300, book your trip on aa.com, or for travel information, visit www.EagleLatitudes.com.
Book your stay direct and save - using our BVI hotel guide.
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They’re places where the imagination can run wild, inhibitions can evaporate and dreams come true. There’s so much to experience, share and treasure.
In the BVI, the attractions under the water are every bit as exciting as those on land. Many people come especially for the fabulous sailing, snorkelling, deep-sea fishing, scuba diving or exotic water sports. Others prefer the diverse sights and activities typical of island life. Some come just to relax in a hammock with a good book and a cool drink. Most seek to escape the cold weather, hectic cities and stressful pace of the real world. Visitors to the islands want to unwind, slow down, find a secluded beach and gaze at a magnificent sunset.
Naturally, water activities are the main attraction. Sailing is very popular, and there is no shortage of events for enthusiasts. There is the renowned BVI Spring Regatta that attracts world-class racers. Foxy’s Wooden Boat Regatta puts Jost Van Dyke on centre stage during the Memorial Day holidays. Every month, there are races and regattas somewhere in the BVI. Surfers, board sailors and kiteboarders will find plenty of challenges here. For those preferring a less strenuous activity, there are beach chairs and hammocks galore.
If nature is more to your liking, there are parks and protected areas on all the major islands. You can hike the trails and enjoy the flowers, birds and wildlife. Or perhaps you would rather explore old forts, plantation ruins or walk among the bricks and mortar that were laid down before the first Europeans settled in North America. 
Tortola, with its rich history, is the largest, most populated island. It is the seat of government and the hub of commercial activity. There’s much to see, and perhaps the best way to begin is by taking a walking tour of Road Town.
As you drive out of town, heading west along the coast road, you will pass the new Peebles Hospital, still under construction, and Government House. Soon, you’ll drive through the settlement at Sea Cow’s Bay. Just beyond, the Nanny Cay Marina and Hotel is a gathering place for the yachting crowd. There are shops and restaurants on the water, overlooking sailboats and luxury mega yachts.
Cane Garden Bay is probably the best-known beach in the BVI. There are lots of restaurants and shops. This is the place to dance barefoot in the sand to the sound of island rhythms. Don’t forget to take a trip back in history and visit the Callwood Distillery. Take home a bottle of their special island rum.
Without a doubt, the most popular spot on the island is a tumble of giant boulders known as The Baths. Produced by geologic forces many millions of years ago, today it is a playground where you can explore grottoes with calm pools of warm water. After enjoying The Baths, be sure to visit the Copper Mine National Park. Copper ore was extracted from the mine for centuries, beginning with the Spanish in the 1500s.
North Sound is one of the most popular yachting destinations in the Caribbean. A sheltered anchorage, the sound offers a variety of amenities for yachties as well as landlubbers. Perhaps best known is the Bitter End Yacht Club, a resort that caters to the water sports enthusiasts. Not far away is the secluded, upscale Biras Creek Resort, where you can enjoy a magnificent meal in a casual but elegant setting.
A quiet, charming island with fewer than 300 friendly residents, Jost Van Dyke is a popular destination for yachtsmen. The sheltered anchorages and inviting atmosphere makes it a must-see on every cruise through the islands. 
On the opposite side of the island is Foxy’s Taboo Bar and Restaurant. From here, you can take a short walk to the “bubbly pool.” The pool is a natural sand depression that formed behind large boulders that break the force of ocean waves. Every time a large wave breaks, the pool fills with sea foam that feels like you’re sitting in champagne. On the walk, you’ll pass a salt pond. Keep an eye out for egrets, ducks and migrating birds.
Visiting Anegada is like passing through a time machine. Most of the island looks about the way it did when the first humans arrived many centuries ago. The pink tinge of flamingos feeding on the salt ponds is a delight for nature lovers. Even The Settlement looks the way it did before electricity, cars and modern conveniences arrived. The island is large and the population small, so it’s easy to get away from it all. If you want seclusion and an escape from civilization, this is the place for you. 
There are a few small resorts and restaurants with names like Anegada Reef Hotel, Neptune’s Treasure, Cow Wreck, Loblolly or Flamboyant. They’re always fun and never crowded. They all offer an ambience that’s rare in the modern world. 
Tortola’s top five
Jost Van Dyke’s top five
Like all tourist destinations, the BVI has its share of taxis. The most popular and certainly most visible are the Safari Buses. These vehicles are customized to carry 20-25 passengers in open-air comfort, but the most interesting feature of almost every Safari Bus in the BVI is the artwork painted on its sides. 
Among Anegada’s many charms, which include miles of white-sand beaches and superb diving sites, are its people. Like the island itself, the people are unspoiled, accommodating and eager to make you part of the Anegadian family. To get an intimate portrait of the BVI’s most secluded island and its people, one only has to hop aboard Anegada’s all-around-man Rondel Smith’s taxi tour.