Islands are magical places. They conjure images of peace and tranquillity, romance and paradise.

If you could fly over the British Virgin Islands in a spaceship, you would gaze down on a string of small green islands sprinkled across a shimmering sea. The views would tantalise your senses and make you want to "drop in" for a visit. But you're already here — you've answered the siren's call. You're ready for an escape to a different reality. There's much to see and do, so let's get started.

Things to Do

While you may not find a casino or Broadway show, there's plenty to occupy your days and nights and fill your book of memories. Perhaps the best overall description of the island tempo is slow and relaxed. Islanders call it "limin'." As a rule, islanders take life slow and enjoy the experience. They will stop on the street and share a moment, taking time to enjoy old friends and make new ones. Participating in that pace of life is probably the best memory of a BVI vacation.

If you're a people person, there are many social settings to enjoy. Obviously, there's shopping and the chance to mingle with the locals. You can find treasures in cute little shops and boutiques, at the crafts market in Road Town or even from an artist on a beach. If you like music, you found the right place. Reggae, calypso and island rhythms can be heard in beach bars throughout the Territory.

Water is the main attraction for most visitors. For the adventurous, there's sailing, diving, kitesurfing, waterskiing and more. If a slow pace is more to your liking, you can try a little beachcombing or giving a hammock a good workout. You may even consider paddling a kayak through the mangroves looking for egrets and tree crabs. For the fishing enthusiast, there's deep-sea fishing for record game fish or fly-fishing on the flats of Anegada. Best of all is watching a spectacular tropical sunset. Who knows? You just might glimpse the renowned "green flash."

Landlubbers can explore several local museums and be transported back through time. Nature lovers will enjoy beach walks and mountain trails where birds, butterflies and exotic flowers put on an endless show.

So you see, even without the casinos and malls, there's plenty to experience and enjoy. Let's take a closer look at the islands and see what each has to offer.

Tortola

The largest and most populated island, Tortola is the heart of government and economic activity. Whilst not quite like New York, Road Town has its own hustle and bustle. In fact, on a day when two or three cruise ships are in town, the streets can be quite busy. Luckily, these crowds are temporary. By nightfall, most of the ships are gone, and the island pace — and peace — returns.

There's much to see on Tortola. In fact, it could take several days to drive around and experience all the island has to offer. You can take a taxi tour or rent a car and do it yourself. Whatever your pleasure, the best place to start is the capital, Road Town. Begin with a walk through town and go back in time. The town is small, quaint and loaded with history. The historic buildings possess a certain charm and architectural style reminiscent of the plantation era.

Start at the town square across from the ferry terminal. It's known as Sir Olva Georges Plaza and is surrounded by offices, shops and the historic Post Office, which is a great place to mail your postcards or buy some souvenir stamps. If you visit during the holidays, you can enjoy the Christmas tree and decorative lights. From here, take a walk down Main Street. Amongst the historic buildings are wonderful shops where you can get special gifts and souvenirs. Make sure you stop and visit the VI Folk Museum for a slice of island life as it was in the old days. Continue along past the gift shops, galleries and boutiques to HM Prison. This historic old building, with its massive stone walls and heavy iron door, looks more like a set from a John Wayne western.

If you like museums, don't miss the Government House Museum and the Lower Estate Sugar Works Museum. For a bit of nature and a dose of solitude, take a stroll through the J. R. O'Neal Botanic Gardens. Located in town, it's a tropical paradise of flowers, butterflies and birds.

Doing a "drive yourself" tour of Tortola is easy. Navigation is simple, and even if you get lost, it won't be for long because the island is so small. There are only a few main roads. The longest is the coastal road on the south side, stretching from the airport on Beef Island to the West End ferry terminal. A similar road runs along much of the north side, and a ridge road stretches down the island's spine.

Perhaps the easiest drive begins in town and heads west on the coastal road. Leaving town on the water's edge, the Government House will be on your right. You'll also pass the Fort Burt Hotel, a historic hotel with a restaurant that serves a fusion of Caribbean and classical European cuisine. For an amazing experience with intelligent mammals, visit Dolphin Discovery inside the Prospect Reef Hotel. It is located in a natural area in front of the ocean, and guests can participate in interactive encounters with the dolphins. After a short drive, you will pass through the small community of Sea Cows Bay. This is the site of the local racetrack, where the horses draw quite a crowd. When races are on, traffic can be slow, so drive carefully. Less than a mile past Sea Cows Bay is Nanny Cay, a yachting centre with a marina, hotel, boatyard, restaurants and shopping. You could easily spend a day there mingling with the boating crowd.

Past Nanny Cay, the coastal road offers breathtaking views of the Sir Francis Drake Channel. Peter and Norman Islands are off in the distance, whilst St. John in the USVI seems a stone's throw away. Most any time of year there will be billowing sails of yachts in the distance. However, if you're lucky enough to visit during one of the regattas, you may be treated to the sight of colourful spinnakers as the yachts race downwind.

Along the way, you will pass Fort Recovery, a quaint resort refurbished from the ruins of a Dutch fortification. Soon after, you will arrive at the junction of the Zion Hill Road that crosses the island to the north side. However, if you continue along the coast, the ferry terminal is only a few minutes away. Across the bay is Soper's Hole Wharf & Marina. You can stop for lunch at Pusser's Landing Restaurant and do some shopping.

After crossing to the north side, you enter the communities of Apple and Carrot Bays, which feature a few upscale resorts, such as the Sugar Mill, and local shops and restaurants. Stop at a local seaside bar like the well-known Bomba's Shack for a bit of island ambience. Heading east over the hill, the next stop is Cane Garden Bay. Long one of Tortola's most popular beaches, this is the place for some nightlife. The many bars and restaurants, amongst them Myett's and Quito's Gazebo, offer music and dancing most nights. Don't leave this bay without a visit to the Callwood Distillery, a historic rum factory that's still operating much as it did a century ago. Enjoy a tour and be sure to take home a bottle of their special rum.

Leaving Cane Garden Bay, you'll drive up the hill to the ridge road. From here, it's just a short drive to Sage Mountain National Park. The highest spot in all the Virgins, it is cool and pleasant year-round, and the views from the top are breathtaking. Continue your drive on the ridge road to Josiah's Bay — one of Tortola's most spectacular beaches and the scene of surfing competitions during the winter. Near the beach, enjoy Josiah's Bay Plantation, another restored historic ruin.

Whether you want lots of action or peace and solitude, Tortola has a special place for you.

Virgin Gorda

Long known as a quiet, laid-back island, Virgin Gorda is home to a handful of upscale destinations. The accent is on peace, tranquillity and the beauty of nature. Perhaps best known is the Little Dix Bay Resort. Originally built by Laurance Rockefeller in the 1960s, it has remained a world-class destination ever since.

The Baths is the most popular spot on Virgin Gorda and perhaps all the islands. This geologic wonder of giant granite boulders, some as big as houses, is a great place to explore. Nearby, the Coppermine National Park was first developed by the Spaniards in the 1500s. Since then, copper ore has been extracted, on and off, for nearly 400 years.

Spanishtown is the main population centre and the original capital of the BVI. In the heart of town, the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour attracts the boating crowd and is a great stop for a meal and some local flavour.

There is one road from town over Gorda Peak to Leverick Bay and Gun Creek. Along the way is the turnoff to Nail Bay, an upscale development of luxurious homes. The view from the top of Gorda Peak is stunning. Be sure to take a little time to explore the trails of Gorda Peak National Park; the park is a great place to see rare plants and wildlife. Don't forget your camera.

The road ends at North Sound. A large natural, sheltered bay, the Sound has been a popular destination for sailing yachts. The Bitter End Yacht Club caters to the yachting crowd but offers plenty of amenities for the landlubber. Leverick Bay also caters to yachties and offers plenty of amenities. In a secluded corner of the Sound, Biras Creek offers splendid accommodations and world-class dining.

Just beyond North Sound is Necker Island, the world-famous playground of the rich and famous. Owned by Sir Richard Branson, the island attracts its share of celebrities. In fact, celebrities are quite common on Virgin Gorda, so you never know whom you might bump into.

Jost Van Dyke

One of the quiet and quaint islands, Jost Van Dyke offers plenty of solitude. Whilst it's slowly starting to develop, it has not lost its charm and friendly atmosphere. That charm, along with beautiful sheltered anchorages, has made Jost Van Dyke a popular stop for cruising yachts.

The centre of island activity is Great Harbour. There are plenty of beach bars and restaurants providing good food and live entertainment. The most popular stop, by far, is Foxy's Tamarind Bar. Foxy Callwood, a legendary entertainer, has been attracting crowds for more than a quarter-century. His New Year's Eve parties are world-famous and a magnet for celebrities.

Just west is the sparkling beach at White Bay. It's a wonderful, long white-sand beach that often attracts the weekend party crowd. This is a good place for socialising and sliding into a charming little beach bar for a rum punch or Painkiller, the famous BVI rum drink.

On the eastern end of the island is Foxy's Taboo bar and restaurant. From there, a short walk along a trail will take you to the "bubbly pool." This is a natural depression in the sand separated from the sea by giant boulders. When the waves hit the rocks, sea foam fills the pool and makes you feel like you're in a huge whirlpool.

For some island fun, take a short boat ride to Sandy Cay. Donated by Laurance Rockefeller, Sandy Cay is now a national park. It's uninhabited and a great place to escape to for a Robinson Crusoe-style adventure.

Anegada

The most remote of all the Virgins, Anegada is truly an undiscovered paradise. With a population of a little more than 200, most of the island is unspoilt and natural. This is definitely the island for nature lovers. Flocks of pink flamingos flying between feeding ponds or large iguanas lurking in the shrubbery are just some of the sights to amaze the curious.

Of course, if you want one word to describe Anegada, it would have to be beaches. Miles and miles of the most incredible beaches you can imagine. You can wander the shores for hours and the only footprints will be behind you. No high-rise hotels to spoil the view, no party crowds — just the occasional cow or donkey.

The hotels and restaurants are small and laid-back, with names like Neptune's Treasure, Cow Wreck, Anegada Reef Hotel, Flamboyant or Loblolly. They all offer great food, serene beaches and a welcoming atmosphere.

Make sure you visit The Settlement, a small community that looks much the way it did before electricity, cars and tourists. For snorkellers and divers, Anegada has miles of reefs, some of which you can easily reach from shore. If fishing is your thing, try your hand at fly-fishing. Local guides can take you to some of the remote flats where you can hook into bonefish for some real excitement.

Most of all, Anegada is a place to get away from all the stresses of civilization. You can find a quiet place to relax and watch the waves roll in. It's a secret you might want to keep to yourself.

Tortola’s top five

1. Visit one, or all five, historical museums.
2. Hike the nature trails at Sage Mountain National Park.
3. Relax in the J.R. O’Neal Botanic Gardens.
4. Tour the Callwood Distillery in Cane Garden Bay.
5. Drive over the hill to Gun Creek and explore North Sound.

Virgin Gorda’s top five

1. Explore the pools and grottoes at The Baths.
2. Take a walk on the trails at Gorda Peak National Park.
3. Dig into history at the Copper Mine National Park.
4. Enjoy the many yachting destinations in North Sound.
5. Tour the island by car and enjoy the views.

Jost Van Dyke’s top five

1. Meet Foxy at his Tamarind Bar in Great Harbour.
2. Play in the sea foam at the “bubbly pool.” Take a cooler with your own bubbly.
3. Relax on the beach at White Bay.
4. Explore the community behind the beach in Great Harbour.
5. Escape to the newest national park on Sandy Cay.

Anegada’s top five

1. Walk through The Settlement and take a step back in time.
2. Take a picture of the flamingos on the interior ponds.
3. Try your hand at fly-fishing on the shallow flats.
4. Snorkel with colourful tropical fish on the near shore reefs.
5. Find a deserted beach and cast your inhibitions to the wind.

Art Gone Wild Safari Buses

By Clive Petrovic

Like all tourist destinations, the BVI has its share of taxis. The most popular and certainly most visible are the Safari Buses. These vehicles are customized to carry 20-25 passengers in open-air comfort, but the most interesting feature of almost every Safari Bus in the BVI is the artwork painted on its sides.

While some drivers place advertising on their vehicles, such as the Capt. Friendly 2-hour Tour, most depict historical or environmental scenes. Fish, dolphins and marine life are naturally popular. Many drivers exhibit scenes of beaches, scenic vistas or views of special significance. Sailing boats and powerboats are also popular. One bus even has a cruise ship painted on its side.

Drivers take great pride in their buses and artwork. The paintings are generally airbrushed by local artists. One talented young artist named "Ghost" has painted several vehicles. Aden, another BVI artist, is very good with the airbrush. A wonderful example of his work can be seen on Alford Christopher's bus. The sides of the bus contain scenes from the movie Finding Nemo. Nemo and all his friends make the bus especially attractive to children. Christopher credits his son Bryan with the idea for the Nemo scenes. Actually, Christopher deserves credit for originating the idea of art on buses. He first painted a bus in 1993. Since then, many drivers have personalized the concept. In fact, visiting a parking lot of Safari Buses is a lot like touring an art gallery. So, the next time you take a taxi, take a moment to enjoy the art that goes along with the ride.

Day Trips for Boaters

By Clive Petrovic

While there are only four major inhabited islands in the BVI, there are nearly 60 smaller islands, cays and rocks scattered throughout the archipelago. The best way to see these sights is by boat. Thus, a great part of any vacation is an island tour, on your own, by boat.

You can rent a small powerboat for the day in Road Town, Nanny Cay, West End and several other locations. Some experience driving a powerboat and basic chart-reading skills are useful to ensure you have a pleasurable day.

A great trip might be to leave from Road Town or Nanny Cay and head south across Sir Francis Drake Channel to Peter Island. You can tie up to the dock in Sprat Bay or anchor off the beach in Deadman’s Bay and swim ashore. Visitors are welcome in the public areas, the boutique and the beach grill. Who knows, you may be tempted to return and be pampered in the spa or have dinner in the elegant restaurant.

From Peter Island, it’s a short boat ride to Norman Island. This is Robert Louis Stevenson’s legendary Treasure Island, and comes complete with stories of pirates and buried chests of gold. Today, the island is uninhabited except for a restaurant on the beach in the Bight. Anchored in the bay is the William Thornton, affectionately known as the Willy T, a trading vessel converted to a bar and restaurant. It’s a great stop for a little “pirate” ambience. On holiday weekends, it can become a definite “adults only” venue.

Just outside the bay are the Caves. These are more like grottoes and a real snorkeller’s delight. Tie up to one of the National Park moorings and swim in. Colourful tropical fish will swim alongside you, looking for a handout. Please, resist the temptation to feed them. Human food is not healthy for the fish and may do them great harm.

After snorkelling at the Caves, take a short boat ride to The Indians. These rock outcrops are the size of houses and full of nesting seabirds in the summer. The waters around the rocks are teeming with fish of every shape and colour imaginable. Floating among the fish, corals and sea fans will make you feel like Peter Pan flying through an enchanted forest.

Another wonderful day trip might include a visit to Salt Island. Tie up to the dock and walk around the abandoned houses to the salt pond, where sea salt is still harvested. Afterwards, take the boat around the corner to the wreck of the HMS Rhone, the BVI’s first underwater park. Snorkel over the wreck and try to imagine what it looked like before it sank in 1867.

After some snorkelling, cruise east to Cooper Island. Accessible only by boat, this island has a few rental homes and a tiny resort that’s the image of a tropical paradise. Have lunch at the restaurant and pick up a souvenir in the boutique.

There are many possible itineraries for a day trip by boat. You can go fast by powerboat or slower by sailboat. Whichever you choose, it will certainly be the highlight of your visit to the BVI.

A Charismatic Taxi Tour Guide

By Elise Donovan

Among Anegada’s many charms, which include miles of white-sand beaches and superb diving sites, are its people. Like the island itself, the people are unspoiled, accommodating and eager to make you part of the Anegadian family. To get an intimate portrait of the BVI’s most secluded island and its people, one only has to hop aboard Anegada’s all-around-man Rondel Smith’s taxi tour.

Smith, one of seven children, comes from eight generations of Smiths who have resided on Anegada. He is related to most of the island’s 200 residents and has lived there all of his 36 years. On Anegada, Smith also met his wife of 11 years, a Guyanese who immigrated there to work at one of the hotels. They have three children. Smith credits his love for the land and sea to his 92-year-old grandfather, Vincent Smith — the island’s oldest resident.

Stops on Smith’s taxi tour include the reserve of the endemic and critically endangered rock iguanas; a conch shell mountain that’s reported to be hundreds of years old and is featured in pirate legends; and the elegant flamingos adorning the sometimes smelly salt ponds. Smith also points out plants that are “good for colds and your blood.” The Acacia Anegadian Cist is a tree that he says is found nowhere else in the world and was used by his grandfather to build ships.

Smith is also the island’s senior warden for the National Parks Trust, but says, “My best days are when I’m barefoot in the sea from sunrise to sunset.” His catches include lobsters, conch and fish, earning more than $1,500 per catch. He likes to fish at least a couple of times a week.

Check out our sightseeing suggestions for British Virgin Islands, island-by-island using the links above.

To get to the BVI's call American Airlines at 1-800-433-7300, book your trip on aa.com, or for travel information, visit www.EagleLatitudes.com.

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