I remember my first trip to Anegada many years ago. Here I was — a scuba instructor used to offshore diving all day, every day, with tanks and BCs (buoyancy controls) and various other gizmos and weights — “stranded” on an endless beach with a coral reef and not a tank, compressor or even boat to be seen. What was I to do? Rediscover the joys of shore-based snorkelling, that’s what.
While the rest of my party lounged on that endless beach, I spent hours exploring the rather remarkable coral reef that lies just off Loblolly Bay, coming ashore only to recharge with food and drink. No boat, no bulky gear, no noisy bubbles — just pure physical freedom and a world of coral grottoes, massive brain corals and curious fish to discover.
Today in the British Virgin Islands, most visitors spend more time on the water than in it. And those out on boats have the luxury of an almost unlimited number of dive and snorkel sites to explore. But what about those of you who aren’t chartering yachts or going out on dive boats every day? How and where do you get wet? It’s not simply a matter of finding the nearest stretch of coastline and slipping beneath the surface — and most beaches don’t offer much to see. A lot depends on which island you’re on.
Tortola offers a few shore-based snorkelling opportunities. Smuggler’s Cove is probably the best known. If you survive the rough-and-tumble road to get there, you’ll be rewarded with an exquisite sandy beach and a fine little reef in the middle of the bay. The neat thing about Smuggler’s is how shallow the water is over the reef. It’s very comforting for novices, and for the rest of us it provides the opportunity to get close (but not too close) to the reef and really study the inhabitants. The tiny fish and shrimp tucked in their hidey-holes are within sight and available for prolonged observation. It’s amazing how captivating the antics of an inch-long goby can be.
If you’re on Virgin Gorda (or take one of the many ferries there for a day trip), you’re in luck. The premier attraction is, of course, The Baths — that magical stretch of condo-sized boulders along the island’s southwest shoreline. If the swell is down and you’re feeling adventurous, a great excursion is to enter the water from the main beach by the food concession and work your way south (to the left). While there’s not much of a coral reef to be seen, it is great fun to explore The Baths from the sea and venture in and out of the canyons and alleyways formed by the boulders. Plenty of fish wind their way through these passages, so lots of close encounters are guaranteed.
Cooper Island is another great day trip destination. Not only are the facilities pleasant and the staff hospitable — not to mention that crescent-shaped Manchioneel Bay is lined with a soft-sand, palm tree-shaded beach — but there’s also plenty of good snorkelling right offshore; plus, there’s downright excellent snorkelling at the far end of the bay, at Cistern Point. You can also try White Bay on Jost Van Dyke, Diamond Reef off Camanoe… there’s no shortage of shore-based snorkelling excursions.
If you consider yourself an adventurer or a naturalist, don’t overlook the fascinating world of mangroves. Both nurseries and protectors, their tangled root systems are home to just about everything in the ocean. Right after the bridge on Beef Island, make a left and you can enter the water from an aging dock and swim in clear water right up to the edge of the mangroves. Watch out for boat traffic. Even a wide field of turtle grass can yield sights of feeding eagle rays, lumbering conch and, of course, turtles.
Alternatively, you can climb aboard a boat and head out to the main attractions, such as the Caves at Norman Island, Coral Gardens at the Dogs or The Indians. Most dive boats will take snorkellers, and there are plenty of day boats that offer food and drink, along with a couple of stops for snorkelling. And if you’re at all handy at the helm, several companies now offer powerboat rentals — be your own captain and go where you want!
Get out there and explore! But I can’t promise you won’t become infatuated by what you find and surrender your life to the siren call of the sea. It happened to me.
Check out our sightseeing suggestions for British Virgin Islands,
island-by-island using the links above.
To get to the BVI's call American Airlines at 1-800-433-7300, book your trip on aa.com, or for travel information, visit www.EagleLatitudes.com.
I remember my first trip to Anegada many years ago. Here I was — a scuba instructor used to offshore diving all day, every day, with tanks and BCs (buoyancy controls) and various other gizmos and weights — “stranded” on an endless beach with a coral reef and not a tank, compressor or even boat to be seen. What was I to do? Rediscover the joys of shore-based snorkelling, that’s what.
Cooper Island is another great day trip destination. Not only are the facilities pleasant and the staff hospitable — not to mention that crescent-shaped Manchioneel Bay is lined with a soft-sand, palm tree-shaded beach — but there’s also plenty of good snorkelling right offshore; plus, there’s downright excellent snorkelling at the far end of the bay, at Cistern Point. You can also try White Bay on Jost Van Dyke, Diamond Reef off Camanoe… there’s no shortage of shore-based snorkelling excursions.