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A Charismatic Taxi Tour Guide

By Elise Donovan

Among Anegada's many charms, which include miles of white-sand beaches and superb diving sites, are its people. Like the island itself, the people are unspoiled, accommodating and eager to make you part of the Anegadian family. To get an intimate portrait of the BVI's most secluded island and its people, one only has to hop aboard Anegada's all-around-man Rondel Smith's taxi tour.

Smith, one of seven children, comes from eight generations of Smiths who have resided on Anegada. He is related to most of the island's 200 residents and has lived there all of his 36 years. On Anegada, Smith also met his wife of 11 years, a Guyanese who immigrated there to work at one of the hotels. They have three children. Smith credits his love for the land and sea to his 92-year-old grandfather, Vincent Smith — the island's oldest resident.

Stops on Smith's taxi tour include the reserve of the endemic and critically endangered rock iguanas; a conch shell mountain that's reported to be hundreds of years old and is featured in pirate legends; and the elegant flamingos adorning the sometimes smelly salt ponds. Smith also points out plants that are "good for colds and your blood." The Acacia Anegadian Cist is a tree that he says is found nowhere else in the world and was used by his grandfather to build ships.

Smith is also the island's senior warden for the National Parks Trust, but says, "My best days are when I'm barefoot in the sea from sunrise to sunset." His catches include lobsters, conch and fish, earning more than $1,500 per catch. He likes to fish at least a couple of times a week.

To get to the British Virgin Islands call American Airlines at 1-800-433-7300, book your trip on aa.com, or for travel information, visit www.EagleLatitudes.com.

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